A Sethanic Experience


SETHAN

- By Vishak Oommenshankar

(Dhillan Chandramowli

- Subject Advisor)

Sethan is a relatively new destination for climbing in India but is quickly emerging as one of the most popular bouldering areas in the country. The quality of rock in Sethan is excellent to climb on; with a lot of development in recent years it‘s already-home to some of the hardest boulders in the country. While the area already has over 300 established problems, the scope for further development is nearly endless. With incredible rock strewn across talus fields, deodar forests, river beds and well above the treeline, it's an area that represents, in one sense, the future of Indian bouldering. You could even come across a few established trad, sport, and multi-pitch routes. Additionally, for those inclined towards route climbing, there are many promising walls, some of these with very little cleaning required.

Sethan is characterised by the incredible quality of its rock-a blend of gneiss and granite, resembling the rock of Squamish, Ticino, or even, Maltatal. Additionally, the setting-high altitude alpine meadows and forests, with a panoramic view of the Dhauladhar Himalayas-makes for a truly multi-sensory climbing experience. Climbing wise, the area offers tremendous variety in terms of styles and difficulty level, with over 400 problems ranging from 5+ to 8B. While many of the established classics are compression-based and involve subtle footwork, there's no shortage of any style or difficulty level, which make the destination enjoyable for a wide spectrum of climbers.



Transport

Sethan is a village in the Kullu Valley, Himachal Pradesh, located around 15 km from the town of Manali. The easiest way to reach Sethan is by taking a bus from either Delhi or Chandigarh to Manali, followed by a cab ride up to Sethan. Cab fares typically average between 1300 and 1500, depending on the size of the vehicle. For solo travellers, it's also possible to hitch a ride. If your luggage isn't excessive, people are very happy to help. Getting to Delhi or Chandigarh, however, can be quite expensive so it is best to plan well in advance, especially if you need to fly in.

In Sethan, people typically walk to sectors. The walks can range from a few minutes to an hour. The approaches are typically on gentle slopes going uphill or downhill. Even for those unaccustomed with alpine terrain, they are relatively easy. While there is a motorable road, we would encourage climbers to approach at least the closer sectors on foot, as it keeps the pollution lower, and is additionally a magnificent way to take in the atmosphere of the valley.

Accommodation

Sethan is very friendly on the wallet! If you’re seeking a dormitory or hostel style accommodation, that’s available. Alternatively, if you want a private room with an attached bathroom or kitchen, those options are available too. For a village that’s no more than 400 metres long, end to end, it offers a lot! While staying in hotels in the area could be expensive, there are cheaper homestay-like options. Here are some options you might want to consider:

1. Sethan Bouldering Hostel (Sunil - +919817959576)

  • One of the largest and most popular accommodations in Sethan
  • Prices can vary between 200-500 rupees a night per head.
  • The only place that rent crash pads, shoes and guidebooks and sell chalk.

2. Sethan Heights (+919816125512)

  • Dual Occupancy rooms or dormitory accommodations (breakfast included)
  • Depending on the seasons, prices for rooms vary between ₹1500-₹3500 and prices for a bed range between ₹700-₹1000
  • Sethan Heights even has a small basic bouldering wall (8x11ft)

3. Shivalaya Lodge (Negi - +918091737560)

  • A lodging that comes with an attached kitchen (No restaurant or food)
  • Prices can vary between ₹1500-₹3500 depending on the season.

4. Woodland Chalet (Animesh - +919459437927)

  • One of most luxurious accommodations in Sethan.
  • Prices can vary from ₹1500-₹2000
  • Only dual occupancy rooms available.

5. Thakur Cafe (+919418074066)

  • Rooms with the Custom meals!
  • Their standard rate is ₹500 per head or ₹1000 per room

Some other options include, ‘Tushita Camps’, ‘Sethan View’ and ‘Sethan Villa’. Prices can vary depending on availability, and you will have to contact them for details. Don’t slack on booking your accommodation in advance, as with the increasing number of climbers, places will begin to get booked out closer to the season.

With regard to food, you can grab a delicious meal within ₹300. Here’s a standrad menu that’s available at most accommodations in Sethan:

1. Tea ₹20-₹30

2. Maggi ₹50-₹80

3. Rajma Chaval/ Veg Thali ₹150-₹250

4. Chicken Thali ₹200-₹300

5. Mutton ₹250-₹300

To provide an estimation, excluding travel to and from Delhi, an entire two-week trip could be between 10-15k rupees taking into account food, accommodation, and travel costs.

Climbing in Sethan

Finding routes

As Sethan is a relatively new area, the documentation is still ongoing. First timers can refer to the existing guide, for some orientation, however the most valuable way would be to speak to other climbers. They are usually very helpful, and forthcoming, when it comes to giving recommendations. In fact, DO NOT feel hesitant to walk up to more experienced climbers for guidance, or even a power spot. It's one of THE BEST ways to truly advance in the process of working on a problem.

Dhillan Chandramowli is a climber to look out for - he’s practically an ambassador of Sethan and is responsible for single-handedly opening most of the boulders. If you catch him at the right time, he would even shower you with great stories behind boulder names, climbing history, and some much-needed wisdom.

Equipment

Bouldering is simpler than route climbing in terms of the equipment required. So you can travel to Sethan with just a pair of shoes and some chalk, as crash pads can be rented. However, keep in mind that during peak season a lot of people could want crash pads causing a shortage. Planning your bouldering trip is the way to go. Find partners to tag along and spot for each other. Partners of similar levels and interests will enhance your rock trip.

Seasons

The two main climbing seasons for Sethan are:

- Summer (from mid-March to early July)

- Autumn (from October to early December).

These windows are optimal to climb, as at other times of the year there is a lot of snow and rainfall.

Summer temperatures are typically in the range of 8 to 17 degrees celsius. The days are longer, with natural light available till 7:45 pm, at times. Autumn, on the other hand, has air temperatures in the range of 0 to 11 degrees Celsius and shorter days, but you are rewarded with immaculate friction and overall conditions for limit-level bouldering.

A portable hangboard is a very good option, for both seasons. They're even available for sale at Sethan Café. Stay well-hydrated; if possible, ORS in your water is recommended. It's also a good idea to carry a flask of tea or coffee that you can sip on.

Rest days

In Sethan, it is also very important to rest well, as the style of bouldering is quite physical and stresses the big muscle groups. There's plenty to do on rest days, from taking a gentle hike to a cold-water dip in turquoise blue pools. Alternatively, if you prefer a 'complete' rest day, you could sit in your room and enjoy a book, movie, or game of cards. Sethan offers an intimate, scenic environment that can really recharge you physically, and mentally. Make sure to factor in these rest days while planning your trip.

Climbing time and conditions

Unlike Hampi or Badami, in Sethan you have the luxury of waking up much later and climbing at pretty much any time. Due to the cold weather, the friction is manageable throughout the day (between 2-4 pm it can get a little hot, and conditions are not that great). The best time to climb is typically when the sun isn't hitting the holds, but there's natural light. Condensation after sunset can affect some problems, but not others. People pick their climbing windows according to their objectives, which is (another) luxury the area offers.

Duration

Longer trips are usually ideal in Sethan as there is so much to explore and it is easy to find the projects and psyche building up, but time tends to run out. Two weeks is a healthy duration for a trip, as it gives you enough time to sample many different problems, hone in on a project, and get those all-important rest days in between. More experienced climbers, especially those developing the area, tend to stay for months. But a trip of this duration requires some mindful effort towards maintaining strength and fitness components. The training infrastructure in Sethan is relatively basic, at the moment. There is a private hangboard, pinch blocks and suspension trainer which you can access. Remember, with a longer climbing trip, your climbing IQ goes up but your power might go down. If you can find a way to balance the loss, then a longer trip would be great!

Lastly, be sure to enjoy the environment. You will hear many climbers say that they love Sethan because of the vibe - it is an excellent place to climb and meet new people. A lot of the country’s strongest climbers and even some international athletes regularly visit Sethan.

Routes

Sethan is filled with lots of iconic boulders, so it is very difficult to make an objective list of the best ones out there. That said, here are some of my favorite boulders in Sethan, from easiest to hardest.

Cave of Games (6A): Cave of Games is a fun overhanging route that is located in the first forest and is perfect for beginners. It has quite a few moves and is a low roof filled with jugs. There are many different combinations and it is a very enjoyable climb.

Slice of bread (6B+/6C: Slice of bread is a typical Sethan style route, being a traverse along an arete, it incorporates a lot of technical climbing along with some finger strength as well.

Denver Post (6C+/7A): Denver post is located deep in the first forest and is another traverse along an arete. It has great flowy movement, mostly on good holds, and requires a lot of well-placed heel hooks.

Bedtime stories (7A+/7B): Although I never tried this one, the moves on Bedtime stories always looked like a lot of fun, with complex heel hooks, toe hooks, and compressions. It is located just off the main road, before the Django cafe and I cannot wait to climb it.

Result of Envy (7C): 'Result of Envy' is a stunning line that goes directly up a sharp arete. It demands a lot of unique movements and is a route that climbers of all levels love to try. It is located directly opposite the Jango’s cafe.

Karma (8A): Karma is not a typical Sethan line, as it is made up of small crimps on a steep overhang. It is a great climb, and the boulder itself is one of the most aesthetic ones in Sethan. The top however is quite exposed, so be sure to have a lot of spotters and crashpads if you are attempting it.

The last chapter (8A+): The last chapter is one of the most iconic routes in Sethan. It is a difficult traverse up a ramp on slopey crimps followed by some difficult compression moves to the top. Even though it’s physically demanding and technical, it allows for a lot of different betas. It is close to the ground and can be tried without spotters, but a fair amount of crash pads will be required if you are trying the whole thing. It is located on the same boulder as the Denver Post.

Sethan is beginning to emerge as one of the leading locations for bouldering in India. In my opinion, the potential and the current quality of problems that Sethan has is unmatched, and with the rapid development in the area, it is just getting better by the day. There is undoubtedly a lot of potential for single-pitch sport, trad, and multi-pitch routes in the region, for those who are interested. The quality of routes is very rewarding for both beginners and professionals and did I already mention how beautiful of a climbing location it is? Probably not enough! Just come and have your own Sethanic Experience!


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